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6 de out. de 2011

Havanna (alfajores)

     A história do alfajor começa do outro lado, com as origens da cozinha árabe. Seu nome original “alhasú” significa recheado. No ano de 1711 este doce chega à Espanha, trazido com a ocupação árabe na Península Ibérica. Em 1896, levado pelo químico francês Augusto Chammás, o alfajor ganha o seu formato redondo que carrega até hoje e começa a ser produzido na Argentina.
     A história da Havanna começou a ser desenhada em 1939, quando o entusiasmo empreendedor de dois jovens amigos se expandiu e pôde se converter no que hoje é o maior ícone da Argentina. Os dois amigos começaram a produzir os alfajores Santa Mônica em uma pequena fábrica em Buenos Aires. Um de seus principais clientes era o dono de uma bomboniere em Mar Del Plata, e de uma relação comercial muito boa nasceu uma amizade muito forte, que fez com que eles encarassem o desafio de abrir uma fábrica de alfajores em Mar Del Plata, na época a cidade balneária mais promissora do país, em plena expansão e desenvolvimento.
    Em 1947, através das mãos do mestre pasteleiro Toribio Gonzáles, a receita foi aprimorada e nascia assim os famosos alfajores Havanna, tal qual conhecemos hoje. Atualmente a Havanna está presente em diversos países e conta com mais de 150 pontos de venda.
     E por que colocaram na empresa o nome da capital de Cuba (e em inglês)? Há quem diga que foi devido à época de sua fundação. Nos anos 1940 Havana "era uma festa", como Ernest Hemingway, que viveu em Cuba, anos depois diria a respeito de Paris. Mas isso é apenas uma suposição. Ninguém entende por que os fundadores não deixaram registros históricos. Provavelmente os três confeiteiros que ganharam fama com sua receita de alfajor estavam muito ocupados.
     A produção continua a ser feita em Mar del Plata, na província de Buenos Aires e, no Brasil, a importação é feita pela Bright Star Business Corporation.
(Fonte: site da empresa / jornal Valor online - 04.05.2015 - partes)

English version:
     The history of the alfajor coincides with the era of the foundation of Havanna alfajors, in 1947. In the case of the company, three baker friends in Mar del Plata, today the largest summer seaside resort location in Argentina, got together to prepare a sweet from a recipe of Arab origin and that probably immigrants from the south of Spain inherited from the times of Moroccan occupation of their country.
     At that time, alfajors from several brands and prices emerged in Argentina. As a good part of the production is still handmade, it’s impossible to obtain statistics from the sector. In Mar del Plata, it’s said that the country has 150 producers. The employees even have a union of “alfajor makers.”
     Curiously, the tradition of buying this sweet on the beach persists even until today when the product is sold in any Argentine city. The expansion brought new habits. There are people who forget to buy alfajors when they leave the coast on a Sunday and stop by a store in Buenos Aires to buy it on the following day. We even see an increase in sales on Mondays,
     In a different way, this behavior has gone beyond the border. Havanna products have been sold in Brazil since 2006. Even so, Brazilians are among tourists that most buy products of the brand in Argentina. To prepare the supply for stores, Mr. Aurich, who took command of the company in 2008, notes on his calendar all the Brazilian holidays.
     The crisis also isn’t an excuse for the Argentine to abandon the custom of drinking a coffee in the street without a hurry. Havanna’s model for a store with a café was launched in the 1990s and gave a strong boost for the company’s business.
     Regardless of the economic moment, there’s a local habit of eating this type of sweet to “trick the stomach” between meals and include it in the lunchbox of children. For the moment, Havanna doesn’t talk about launching a diet or light alfajor. The company prefers to offer those who want to cut calories a mini version of 25 grams (100 calories), half of the traditional product.
     The change in the control of Havanna began in late 1990s. The heirs of the bakers who founded the company decided to sell it to an investment group called Exxel. In 2003, Havanna was sold once again to DyG (Development and Management), formed by three partners who gave up jobs in the financial industry and in the government to become entrepreneurs.
     Of the 10% of production exported today, half would go to Brazil. Paraguay and Spain are also important markets. The company sells where consumers know about alfajor.
     The expansion abroad has helped increase volumes. The production of alfajores and other products that have emerged through its history, like Havannet, a cone of caramelized milk covered with chocolate and sweet cookies went from 2,300 tonnes in 2004 to 6,000 tonnes last year.
     There are 202 points of sale of Havanna in Argentina, more than double the nearest competitor, Balcarce, also of Mar del Plata. Franchises make up two thirds of the chain. According to Mr. Aurich, in Brazil there is a list of 6,000 people who want to be franchisees for the brand.  But the executive says the company is cautious; it demands involvement with the brand. That’s why the product almost cannot be found in supermarkets.
     In Brazil, where the brand is represented by Café del Plata, a company of the Rothenber group, the franchising process has begun not long ago, with six stores in Rio de Janeiro. Café del Plata has another 31 of its own locations.
     And why did they name the company after the capital of Cuba (and in English?) There are those who say that it was due to the year of the company’s foundation, a year of prosperity in Cuba and success of its musical repertoire. But that is only speculation, considering that the founders didn’t leave historical records. At that time, the three bakers that had earned fame with their alfajor recipe were probably already too busy. 
(Fonte: jornal Valor online - 04.05.2015)

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